September / October 2010 —
Masculine, monochromatic and minimalist. Metal's Fall address, if not entirely black and white, is an exercise in the restrained and understated palette that Spain's most influential titles notes running through the key collections and most persuasive offerings of a number of the leading fashion creatives at work today. Somewhat intentionally contradictory to the spirit of a title that has been noted for its colourful and devil-may-care theatricality, the current issue of Metal offers a sombre, meditative and even quiet consideration of the key looks of the season. Even where colour cannot be denied – such as in the feature on the rather unexpected collaboration between Peter Pilotto and the mainstream bag and accessory brand Kipling- the tone is one of an architectonic inevitability and a winter of pensive simplicity.
As the lead editorial points out, this masculine feeling in the collections is one that is historic rather than nostalgic, something that is readily seen, for example, in the story in which humanitarian Jacquetta Wheeler is captured by Oliver Spies. Top brands such as Gucci, Jean Paul Gaultier, Valentino or Céline are profiled as complete looks that underscore the elegant pragmatism and historic references to a practical woman caught up in difficult times embedded in the codes of the zeitgeist.
If this issue of Metal is more centrally concerned with fashion than other issues, that is hardly a surprise, given the seasonality. But, true to metal's DNA, even this is handled in an interesting way: women such as Astrid Muñoz and Caroline de Maigret are reconsidered beyond the codified label of 'models' for their other achievements whilst retaining their rightful place as fashion icons.