Issue 25 Autumn 2011 —

The most striking impression made by Metal’s AW11 issue is its starkness. The feel connecting the whole issue is Spartan and sparse. It’s not that it’s empty. On the contrary, it’s jam-packed with a veritable feast of content focussing very heavily on fashion. But, the overall approach in both the more traditional aspects of art direction and the rather more particular nuances of the photography styles chosen to profile the seasonal looks has a direct simplicity and lack of showy artifice that is immediately notable. If one didn’t know that it was Metal, one could be forgiven for thinking that it was a magazine from northern Europe since it really is an exercise in the kind of minimalist presentation that is more commonly associated with that end of the continent. 

However, even with this rather homogenous feel to much of the photography presented, a number of the fashion stories grab one’s attention. Amongst these are Matteo Montanari’s shoot of the seasonal menswear collections, styled by Ana Murilla, and Eric Guillemain’s comparable showcase of the seasonal womenswear collections, styled by Julian Monge. Both share the bold simplicity that becomes a form of mantra for this issue. The former constructs its stark beauty through a juxtaposition of studio shots and gritty monochrome against the backdrop of non-descript modernist cityscape while the latter confines itself to the studio creating a fashion story as a form of direct address. 

Top fashion is elaborated in the fashion shoots and also forms the basis of many of the articles and interviews in the issue. There’s Dal Chodha’s interview with Manish Arora, India’s first international designer wunderkind. Needless to say Arora’s more recent role at Paco Rabanne is of particular interest to the Spanish fashion world and turns out to be pretty engaging for the rest of us too. And there’s Laura Diaz Extremera’s conversation with Jean Jacques Picart, the reigning maestro behind a slew of luxury fashion brands. It is obviously of interest to fashionistas but, in a world in which many of his brands have become ‘defensive goods’ in an uncertain economic climate, it’s more than just the fashion crowd who are likely to find it of interest. Elsewhere, the features on and portraits of other top names in fashion continue unabated. 

    Issue 25 Autumn 2011 –
    October 2011 196 Pages 0 Minutes of audio 0 Minutes of video
    In This Issue –
    The New In the Now Dal Womenswear Collections Jean- Jacques Picart Laura Diaz Extremera Manish Arora Nicolas Santos Lara Antonioni Menswear Collections Stefan Zschernitz Menswear Collections Matteo Montanari Olivier Theyskens Rodolfo Paglialunga Robert Nethery Nicolas Valois
    Editor In Chief –
    Yolanda Muelas
    Creative Editor –
    Julian Monge
    METAL - Issue 25 Autumn 2011  METAL - Issue 25 Autumn 2011  METAL - Issue 25 Autumn 2011  METAL - Issue 25 Autumn 2011  METAL - Issue 25 Autumn 2011  Issue 25 Autumn 2011  METAL - Issue 25 Autumn 2011

Our Take —

If the title conjures up images of podgy middle-aged leather-clad, death thrash musicians flicking their tongues at the camera, think again. Despite the title, this Spanish magazine is unlikely to give page space to ACDC clones. Well, not unless it was all done in a terribly creative and ironic way…

Arriving on the scene in 2006, this Barcelona-based title with an international team has rapidly captured attention with its particular position. Under Yolanda Muelas’ direction, Metal is a magazine that mixes luxury and the quintessential, giving equal time to the more erudite and conceptual throes of fashion, film or music alongside the crypto-documentary naturalism of the street.

Lessons learned from the nineties’ emphasis on showing fashion as a transient and matter-of-fact thing occurring in gritty real surroundings have been retained. But, in Metal, these ideas are teased out further and complemented with daringly theatrical and OTT presentations, whether of fashion, celebrity or hip street culture.

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