Look! It's Mert & Marcus —
The third issue of this fashion world ode to itself devotes substantial space to two thematic compendiums of articles and interviews. The first, The Young Guns, as the name suggests, is an extensive series of short punchy articles on the rising stars of the international luxury fashion scene. From the make-up artists and hair stylists to designers and photographers making waves in the upper echelons of high fashion, it’s essential reading for anyone who wants to gain the insider’s view on the big names of tomorrow.
The second, The Opinion Formers, is a series of more in-depth interviews with some of the world’s most influential fashion critics and writers, accompanied by suitably impressive portraiture. It also offers, as a by-product, a snapshot of how popular ideas about fashion are disseminated to the wider world. It’s a suitably eclectic and representative sampling of the mandarins of style whose words can make or break a designer. They range from the FT’s Vanessa Friedman to the legendarily verbally flamboyant Tim Blanks. And while all of the interviews offer the meatiest portraits of those shaping contemporary opinions on fashion, Jonathan Wingfield’s interview with Le Figaro’s Virginie Mouzat really stands out. Perhaps it is because she is effectively ‘the insider’; the only one profiled working in the mother tongue of the French culture that created Paris as the most enduring fashion capital in the first place. Or perhaps it’s because she is the only one with who leapt the chasm between catwalk and front row. Whatever the reason, the interview is a beautifully modulated exercise in revising the idea that the world of fashion is simplistically bitchy and instead shows that it is still as elaborate in its social intercourse and manners as the eighteenth century court of Versailles.
Also of particular note is Murray Healy’s extensive interview with Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. Sketches by Jean-Charles, archival photos and Sharif Hamza’s portraiture and archival collection shoot accompany it, creating a vivid recap of the famous designer’s life and times.