Husband and wife team Stuart Trevor and Kaith Bolongaro were the original founders and designers of the All Saints brand that has since grown into a familiar international high-street phenomenon.
Not ones to rest on their collective laurels, recent years have seen Stuart and Kait embark on a new fashion venture. Like All Saints, their new label Bolongaro Trevor designs both women’s and menswear. But with Bolongaro Trevor the feel is more upmarket; an emphasis on top quality materials – both new and vintage- combined with more detailing and a few more twists and quirks to the silhouettes.
As the AW10 menswear collection shows, the signature comfort and practicality that made the seminal All Saints a fast runner is still present, as are certain emblematic features that proudly denote the Englishness of the design. But, there is also a more daring edge to some of the cutting or shaping of looks that were less part of the All Saints identity with its trendy but broad commercial appeal. For example, in the AW10 menswear collection, there are quirky little games with asymmetry in some of the knitwear pieces made from fine wool or the accentuated drop-crotch cut of some of the trousers. The palette is generally dark or light neutrals, making it both pretty practical yet also emphasising form. Here and there, there are pieces with flashes of colour or stark graphics printed on t-shirts that introduce detail, as do elements in some of the jackets made from recycled Union Jack flags.
There is most definitely a sense that this collection is aiming to attract the attention of those men who are really interested in fashion as a kind of statement through structure rather than simply wanting to fit in with a cool crowd.
Not that Bologaro Trevor has anything against cool. On the contrary, part of the ethos of the brand has been to align itself with hip and energetic artists and musicians hanging around London’s Shoreditch and other East End haunts. And, because the designs have appealed, it hasn’t taken long for young members of trendy bands, celebrity party girls and the established rock firmament – Pete Doherty, Liam Gallagher or Depech Mode- to be snapped wearing the brand’s gear.
Bolongaro Trevor is available at their London flagship store, in over a hundred shops around the globe and through their online shop.