Editorial — Editorial of the Month – August – Riot! – Twill Issue 13

Twill is quite simply a beautiful multilingual magazine – primarily a mix of English, French and Italian- published in Paris. Sporadic, with aspirations to be quarterly, this off-centre offering has nonetheless managed to make it to its thirteenth issue. Twill is a highly intelligent – perhaps even intellectual- publication that follows the established notion of a curatorial approach to making a magazine. But, in the case of Twill, this actually means something: the magazine delivers intelligent articles on its chosen theme together with visual explorations of the particular terrain.

Twill issue 13. Riot! Photo: Derrick Santini Styling: Marie Von Haselburg (detail)

Twill issue 13. Riot! Photo: Derrick Santini Styling: Marie Von Haselburg (detail)

Self-consciously intelligent, the magazine readily engages in the politics of the current landscape of discourses surrounding fashion. For example, it states that it “is not a fashion magazine” and that “Twill is a unique venture in publishing that some media have labelled an intellectual fashion magazine. The oxymoron is rather obvious…”

There a few who could disagree with a point made so succinctly.

And yet, in the current issue of Twill – devoted to the theme of ‘Democracy’- there is much interesting and experimental fashion presented in relation to a theme not readily associated with the discipline in its mainstream manifestation. These explorations range from re-enactment shoots including John and Yoko’s famous ‘love in’ to a strange story growing out of the tragedy of the Russian nuclear submarine Kursk lost in the Barents Sea in 2000.

The clearest of these various experiments in Twill that simultaneously operates as fashion and a clear discussion of the issue’s thematic thrust is the fashion story ‘Riot!’ photographed by Derrick Santini and styled by Marie Von Haselburg some time ago. Camp, over-the-top and somewhat ridiculous, their work nonetheless transports the presentations of clothing to new contexts, readily associating dress with the romanticised drama of revolutionary struggle. Radical chic.

Twill issue 13. Riot! Photo: Derrick Santini Styling: Marie Von Haselburg

Twill issue 13. Riot! Photo: Derrick Santini Styling: Marie Von Haselburg